Granted, an eye cream is an extra step for beauty minimalists, so if you don’t use one, here's the reason why they exist. Read on to learn more, says editor Trudi Brewer.
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If dark circles, bags, or puffiness stare back at you in the mirror every day, you're not alone. According to dermatologist Stacy Chimento, "Eye creams are formulated specifically for the thinner, more delicate skin. Eye creams by nature contain more oil than a facial cream and feature active ingredients that target specific issues."
To understand how they work, let's first discuss the skin under the eye area. "It's thinner, sensitive, and more prone to showing early signs of ageing, like dehydration and irritation, compared to the rest of the face," says Dr Chimento. The raft of concerns differs from face to face: Puffy eyes are the most common. Often caused by a build-up of fluid that pools under the eye area (that's why this is most noticeable when you wake up after lying flat while sleeping). Dark circles are also up there on the list of concerns. Often, heredity or the thinness of that skin makes veins more visible beneath. Then, as we age, skin becomes tissue-like or crepey, which leads to deeper lines (like crow's feet). This is where the right eye cream comes into its own.
Understanding what you need
Visiting a beauty counter can be overwhelming when you have multiple concerns. Eye creams, typically thicker and more hydrating, are ideal for dry skin or those wanting to target fine lines and wrinkles. On the other hand, eye gels are often water-based, making them lightweight and designed to be refreshing and cooling, which makes them a good choice for oily or combination skin and for reducing puffiness.
Eye gel ingredient list
Caffeine is most commonly used as a vasoconstrictor, which helps constrict blood vessels and reduce puffiness, while also delivering a temporary tightening effect. Peptides are also used, which promote collagen production, resulting in a more youthful appearance. Hyaluronic acid is another hero ingredient in eye gels; its ultra-lightweight texture helps to improve hydration instantly. Vitamin C helps brighten the skin and reduce the production of melanin, which can decrease hyperpigmentation that often appears as dark circles. Vitamin K, along with its anti-inflammatory benefits and antioxidant properties, has an effect on the blood clotting process under the skin, helping reduce the appearance of dark circles caused by blood pooling in the tiny vessels underneath the eye. Non-irritating, it also suits sensitive skin. Finally, arnica has been used for centuries to treat bruising, accelerate wound healing, and stimulate the body's natural healing process.
Eye cream ingredient list
Retinol, or vitamin A, remains one of the most effective ingredients for stimulating collagen production, thereby improving firmness and reducing visible signs of ageing. Hyaluronic acid and other humectants also play a key role by attracting moisture to dehydrated skin, helping to minimise the appearance of fine lines. Niacinamide is essential for building proteins in the skin to repair damage, reduce hyperpigmentation, strengthen the skin barrier, and increase moisture by decreasing inflammation.
Here are the eye gels & creams we have on rotation
Environ Youth essentia vita peptide eye gel, $125
Known as a heavyweight when it comes to active ingredients, all in the quest for firming ageing skin. It’s stacked with peptides, such as argireline and matrixyl (clever amino acids that act as signalling molecules in the skin), as well as optimhyal, which stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid. The golden girl in the formula is vitamin A, which benefits those fine lines greatly, while vitamin E combats UV damage. That lineup was formulated to address skin loss of firmness, puffiness, and fine lines. Oh, and did I mention it’s gloriously hydrating, which instantly smooths that delicate skin?
You only need one pump; use both morning and evening. This gel is suitable for all ages and skin types.
TIP: Why use eye cream when moisturiser will do?
No amount of concealer will hide the appearance of tired eyes; in many cases, it exacerbates the look of ageing. While most eye creams are pricey, the base of any eye cream may appear similar to that of a facial moisturiser, but it is not. What sets an eye cream apart is the texture, delivery system, and ingredient selection. The active ingredients in eye creams are at concentrations that are safe and well-tolerated for the delicate skin under and around the eyes.
Shiseido Future Solution LX Eye and Lip Contour Regenerating Cream, $245
This cream glides on effortlessly, feeling like silk. It can be used on both the eyes and the lips, smoothing lines and wrinkles while providing plenty of moisture, thanks to the exclusive LonGenevity complex. This complex combines Japanese enmei herb, vitamin C, green tea, and Skingenecell 1P, an amino acid derivative that firms skin of any age. Additionally, the formula includes antioxidant plant extracts such as cherry blossom and peach leaf extracts, liquorice, watercress, and Okra extracts. While it's pricey, a little goes a long way. So, if you’re comfortable splurging on it, you will be thrilled with the results. Long-term, the benefits are even more apparent, including improved skin smoothness and a brighter appearance under the eyes. Bonus: You can use this divine cream daily, in the morning and at night.
How much should you apply?
Have you ever noticed how tiny eye cream jars are? There's a reason for that; a little goes a long way. If you think that more is better with this step in your skincare routine, you're wrong. For the area under your eyes, less is always more. "Putting on too much product can clog your pores and even creep into your eyes and irritate them. A pea-sized amount is all you need," says dermatologist Dr. Chimento.
NO7 Future Renew Repair Eye Serum, $50.
New to our shores, the British beauty brand that has remained number one in the UK for 89 years. One of their latest innovations is a smoothing, gel-like cream that sinks immediately into the skin, delivering the goodness of potent ingredients. The star of this product is a 'super-peptide blend' called Pepticology technology, which essentially 'biohacks' the skin's natural repair process to stimulate the renewal of collagen and elastin, the cushion skin needs to stay firm. In addition to the peptide technology, there are superhero antioxidants, such as brightening niacinamide, vitamin C, the moisture magnet hyaluronic acid, and rice protein. The brand promises that after one week, dryness will improve, and those fine lines will be plumped. We agree. No7 is available exclusively at Life Pharmacy.
Give the product time to absorb
"You have to make sure you give any product you place on your skin time to sink in. Make sure you give it a few minutes to settle into the skin to feel its effects," says Dr. Chimento.
MURAD Retinol Youth Renewal Eye Serum, $160.
Not only was this designed for smoothing fine lines, but winter is also the best time to start using it. Infused with collagen-stimulating retinol, which combines a time-released version of the ingredient with a fast-acting one to boost efficacy. This serum-like cream offers a 360-degree anti-ageing effect with a silky texture that sinks in quickly. Like all good eye creams, it has a lightweight texture and serves as an all-around hero for reducing under-eye bags and fine lines.
Don't apply eye cream too close to your eyes.
If you wake up with puffy eyes, it may be due to where you apply your eye cream. You shouldn't apply eye cream to your eyelids or too close to your lash line. "As your body temperature rises, the product can travel on its own," explains Dr. Chimento. "There is no need to place it too close to the eye; focus on applying it to the orbital bone around the eye area, and no lower."
NEUROCOSMEDICS by GINGER&ME Hydra-Glow Eye Masks, $75
We've found our new skincare obsession. These gel-like masks are brilliant for soothing stressed eyes, hydrating dry skin, and providing gentle compression, which helps reduce fluid buildup on under-eye bags while you wear them. Stacked with niacinamide, which strengthens the skin, which thins with age, while boosting the naturally occurring ceramides or lipids that help the skin retain moisture. Red algae, Moringa seed oil, and Portulaca oleracea extract further hydrate the skin. Finally, neem extract is known for its potent anti-inflammatory effects. This ingredient blend works miracles. Whenever your eyes need a moisture boost, leave them on for up to 20 minutes, remove and press the remaining serum into the eye area. Finally, they are eco-friendly; these gel pads will dissolve in warm water.
Always use your ring finger
All dermatologists recommend a gentle approach for treating the thin skin under the eyes. Therefore, your ring finger is the best candidate for applying eye gels and creams. Gently pat, never tug, the cream as you use it to ensure you're not putting too much pressure on the thin skin.
Tailor AWAKEN Brightening eye cream, $49.
Not only is the gel-like cream a clean beauty buy (with 99.2 per cent natural ingredients), but it’s also loaded with brightening caffeine to help reduce the appearance of dark circles and boost blood flow to minimise puffiness. The other trusted ingredient is hyaluronic acid, which helps increase hydration. But what we love most is the addition of golden mica, which blurs the look of imperfections. Ideal as a morning pick-me-up and an excellent base for under concealer. Oh, and did we mention this is NZ made?
Don't expect immediate results.
While some eye creams can instantly plump and minimise the look of wrinkles, most take time to offer long-term results. "In the same way, you wouldn't expect a massive change after going to the gym once or twice; you'll need to stick with your eye cream to reap the full rewards. Give your eye cream time, at least 30 to 60 days to see the benefits," says Dr Chimento.
The Ordinary Multi Peptide Eye Serum, $53
Not everyone likes the feeling of a rich cream under their eyes. If you prefer a gel-like texture, this water-based serum sinks into the skin in seconds. Using multiple peptide technologies, four in total, plus caffeine, niacinamide, and ash bark extract, this serum helps brighten and balance out the appearance of dark circles. Another bonus: This serum plays nicely with makeup, especially underneath concealer, preventing it from settling into fine lines.
Contaminating the cream
An airless pump is the best way to keep the product bug-free while dispensing the optimal amount. However, if your eye cream comes in small pots, avoid dipping your finger into the cream, as this can introduce bacteria into the jar. Instead, use a cotton bud to scoop out the formula. Keeping the cream clean can help extend its potency and lifespan.
Find out why they exist.